Please select Freehub (Hyperglide, Microspline or XD) and/or End Caps from HERE after your selected hub has been added to the cart.
Compatible End Caps – 15×100, 15×100 Torque, 9×100, QR, 20×110 Non-Boost, 12×100
Industry Nine Classic hubs are the heart of your wheelset, everything revolves around them, literally. Every Classic mountain hub is made start to finish in our Asheville, NC machine shop. From turning and milling bar stock 7075-T6 aluminum for shells, axles and encaps, wire EDM cutting A2 tool steel for pawls and driverings, to our own in-house anodization lab, every step of design, engineering, manufacturing and assembly is done on premises to our exacting standards.
Hydra Classic mountain hubs are loaded with features every rider will appreciate such as revolutionary 0.52° engagement, generously low weights and an intuitive layout that can be serviced without any proprietary tools. Our range boasts a universe of standard options in terms of axle fit, spoke hole drillings, disc rotor mounting, freehub bodies, and colors. *Hydra generation non-boost front hubs use Torch axles and endcaps.
Is my fork Boost or non-Boost?
Measure the gap between the inside faces of the fork dropouts. 100mm is non-Boost, which is what this hub is. 110mm is Boost, and you’d want the Boost version instead.
As a rough guide, forks from roughly 2016 onwards are usually Boost and anything older usually isn’t – but there are plenty of exceptions, so measure rather than assume. Send us the fork make, model and year if you’d rather we checked.
Which axle standards does this hub run?
This non-Boost hub covers a wide spread of older and road-going standards: 15×100, 15×100 Torque Cap, 9×100, quick release, 20×110 non-Boost, and 12×100.
That range is why these hubs stay useful for years – the shell stays the same and the end caps change. Tell us what your fork takes and we’ll confirm the right setup before you order.
What is Centrelock, and do I need it?
Centrelock is Shimano’s splined rotor mount – the rotor slides on and is held by a lockring rather than six bolts. This is the Centrelock version of the hub.
Match whatever your rotors already are; changing standard means buying new rotors too. If you’re choosing fresh, Centrelock is quicker to swap and marginally lighter, but needs a cassette lockring tool and rotor choice is narrower. 6-bolt gives wider rotor choice and only needs a T25 key. We stock this hub in both.
Should I choose 28 or 32 hole?
Let the rim decide, and don’t assume more spokes is automatically better. Plenty of wheelsets are specced 28 hole on purpose – a slightly more compliant wheel tracks better and finds more grip on rough ground than a stiffer one does.
Follow the rim manufacturer’s guidance for the rim you’re building onto. If you’re replacing a hub in an existing wheel, match what your rim already has. Tell us the rim and we’ll confirm before you order.
